New Year's Resolutions (For April)

So as I'm sitting here at my computer, slowly (and painstakingly) knocking out one homework assignment after another, I've come to the realization that my time left here in Barcelona is limited and the open gap of opportunity for exploring things I have yet to see is beginning to narrow. With this in mind, I have made a resolution to be proactive in the coming weeks and knock off things from my "to-do" checklist that I've wanted to see/accomplish here in Barcelona since I arrived about three months ago. Unfortunately the weather has been a little more than unpredictable in the last few days, so I'm hoping for some better luck in the next few. My ambitions were set in motion today when I decided to take a walk through the Botanical Gardens of Barcelona on Montjuic just beyond the Olympic Complex. Having a little background history on the site, it was nice to see it in person. My timing must have been just right because as I was leaving I had the privilege of watching an amazing orchestrated water show at the fountains just up from Placa Espanya.


Leaving my apartment for the garden, however, I had a little taste of Spanish culture up close and personal. Just up the street from my apartment at the procession in front of the Arc de Triomf was a huge market of countless little tents selling just about anything you could imagine, stretching all the way into the Parc de la Ciutadella. It was interesting to wander up and down the rows and rows of tents seeing what the locals had to offer. There was even some musical entertainment, complete with little kids dancing all over the place. Seeing the market in front of the Arc de Triomf was just a little reminder of how interesting the culture is that I've been merged into living here in Barcelona. It also was a little reminder of all the things Barcelona has to offer that I have been missing out on up until this point. My resolution has come at a good time- no building will be left un-criticized or un-sketched, no museum un-visited, no bar un-patronised? Esta bien.

A Valencia Orange a Day Keeps the Doctor Away

Given the extreme amount of time spent hopping from one major city to the next during my Spring Break excursion, I decided that for Easter Break I wanted to take it a little bit easier and enjoy some of the finer things Spain has to offer. The decision was made to take a trip down south the visit the great city of Valencia, and it was well worth it. Valencia was almost like a tropical paradise- we were welcomed by warm weather, shining sun, and palm trees about every two feet. The intent was to have a nice relaxing break free of stress and take it as an opportunity to soak up the Spanish culture to the fullest extent. Before arriving in Valencia, however, I had another great opportunity at experiencing the language barrier in full swing. On the train ride into Valencia I sat next to a kind old man (who happened to have a bad case of a hangover) who unfortunately didn’t know a word of English, but decided to start numerous conversations with me. I surprised myself by responding in full Spanish, using everything I had been learning in Spanish class. It seemed like the language barrier, at least for Spanish, was starting to narrow. It was a pretty cool feeling being able to communicate with someone who didn’t know a single word of English.



Our first day in Valencia was spent walking and exploring the city from one edge to the next with no planned agenda. If there is one thing that Valencia succeeds in where Barcelona falls somewhat short, it is in the amount of green/park space it has scattered throughout the city. There were countless fountains everywhere, and combined with the warm weather Valencia seemed to be just what the doctor ordered. A considerable amount of time was spent our first day in Valencia at Santiago Calatrava’s Center of Arts and Sciences. The best description I can give for his complex of unique and gravity-defying buildings is that it was similar to an architectural “fun” land. In any case, it was definitely a must-see. Throughout our time in Valencia we visited Calatrava’s Arts and Sciences Center a total of about three times, including a trip to the aquarium to see a coordinated dolphin dance-show. Our second day in Valencia was spent renting bikes and trekking throughout the city to see how it compared to Barcelona. We were able to visit and spend some time at the beach and waterfront area, which seemed quite a big larger than that of Barcelona. Unfortunately our biking adventure was interrupted by a big thunderstorm that decided to roll in about halfway through the day. Riding through the streets of Valencia in the pouring rain (including about an hour delay to take cover at a gas station) wasn’t exactly the ideal situation, but it was fun nonetheless. For our last night in town we decided to pay a visit to the Valencia cathedral, which was nice to see in comparison to the other cathedrals throughout Europe. My favorite experience of Valencia, however, was surprisingly the train ride back to Barcelona. I sat next to an old man from Cuba by the name of Tony, who decided to start a conversation with me about art and politics. All in all we chatted for about two hours, half in English and half in Spanish. It was an interesting experience to say the least. Overall my trip to Valencia was a total success- I got the good old fashioned R&R that I was looking for, and couldn’t have been happier.

A Penny For Your Thoughts, A Dirham For Your Insight

If there was ever a time in my life where I was forced to step way outside of my comfort zone, our third field trip to Africa was definitely that time. Aside from not being able to communicate with the people whatsoever, I had no idea what kind of cultural boundaries I was going to cross visiting Morocco. The first realization that I was stepping into an entirely different cultural zone came when I stepped off the plane at the airport in Fes, and found myself standing in the middle of nowhere surrounded only by wide open plains and one other plane on the runway. I knew then that it was going to be a pretty exciting experience and definitely an eye-opener.

In Fes I had the chance to stay at the Riad Dar Al-Andalus, which in and of itself was more or less a palace, complete with interior mosaic ornamentation and flowing fountains accented by rose petals. It was one of the nicest hotels I had ever stayed in, and the people were some of the friendliest I had ever met before. Fortunately for me some spoke English, but for the other French-speaking people of Fes I was able to use some of the leftover French terms and phrases I had picked up while in Paris. The majority of my time in Fes was spent wandering the narrow passageways and streets lined by rows and rows of monochromatic plaster structures that make the city so unique, all with the help of our friendly guide Momo and his nephew. I had the opportunity to visit and sketch numerous religious structures and mosques, in addition to getting the insider’s view and knowledge on everything from our guide. Along the way we also had the chance to step into numerous small shops to see the workings of textile and leather production, to name a couple. We even had a private demonstration from a practicing “medicine man,” which was interesting to say the least. Some of my time in Morocco was also spent in the neighboring city of Meknes, visiting the grounds of fairly well preserved Roman ruins on the way. Although it was similar to Fes in many respects, there was a lot to be learned in Meknes culturally.

One of my favorite parts of our excursion to Morocco was the food. Without a doubt it was some of the best food I’ve ever tried. I took the opportunity to branch out a little with my taste in food while I was there, and tried an interesting dish made of pastry, cinnamon, and pigeon meat. Different, but really good nonetheless. Although Morocco was probably one of the most exotic places I’ve ever visited in my entire life, it remains as one of my favorite. There’s a lot to be said of the cultural bridge between the people of Morocco to the people of Spain and even to those of the United States. Spending time in places such as Fes and Meknes and having the opportunity to experience such different people and cultures is a pretty maturing experience, one that draws to mind how different we all are but how similar at the same time. As Momo’s nephew said on the street corner as we were sharing a chocolate bar I had just purchased, “We are the same people- you and I, we are brothers.”

Tasty Wine, Tasty Culture

For our second field trip, I had the chance to explore the northern Spanish city of Bilbao. Coming from Barcelona, which as a city is a lot more populated with a very metropolitan feel, Bilbao seemed like a tiny little village. Although it had the same Spanish feel, it was a much more relaxing place to visit. Compared to my previous Spring Break expedition, it was also nice to visit a city where I could speak in Spanish, which as a language is becoming much more familiar to me every day that goes by. The highlight of Bilbao was without a doubt our visit to Canadian architect Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Art Museum. I had heard a lot about Gehry’s interesting and sometimes non-rational (depending on who you ask) structures before, but I had never witnessed one personally until the Guggenheim. I was almost speechless at first, but as I explored the galleries and display areas I grew a pretty fond appreciation of his design. While in Bilbao, I also had the chance to walk yet another of Santiago Calatrava’s bridges. Although it was at a much smaller scale of the pedestrian, as a functioning structure it remained just as impressive.


Our trip to Bilbao was in some respects a two-part journey. Our second day there we embarked on an hour-long bus ride to an area of northern Spain infamous for its wine making- La Rioja. The scenery was amazing, probably some of the nicest I’ve seen in all of Europe so far. The intent was to visit three different wineries notable for not only the wine they produce, but also for a building contributed to each by notable architects. On our first stop, we were able to sit and relax in a wine-tasting pavilion designed by Zaha Hadid. Although it was a much smaller scale in comparison to her other structures, it was the first Zaha project I had ever seen in person and as such was just as impressive. Our second stop landed us on winery grounds containing a hotel designed by Frank Gehry, which was almost as impressive as his design for the Guggenheim but a lot harder to admire given the extreme amount of glare it was giving off from the sun. Our third and final stop found us at a winery designed by none other than Spanish architect Santiago
Calatrava. As one of the first actual built structures I had ever seen by Calatrava (sans his numerous bridges scattered throughout Spain), I was very impressed.





Seeing Bilbao and the surround region gave me a pretty different perspective on Spain, both geographically and culturally. The trip was a great success, and fortunately I was able to take a newfound knowledge on wine with me back to good old Barcelona. Como mola.

Western European Adventure

So Barcelona has gotten the best of me, and it has been a pretty good amount of time since my last post. I’m going to do my best in a game of catch up to cover everything exciting that has been going on in the past weeks, starting with Spring Break. As far as a ten day trip is concerned, Spring Break was a very ambitious traveling endeavor. My aim was to visit three of the biggest cities in the world – Paris, London, and Rome. Although my choices were probably some of the most typical tourist hot-spots, they had been places I wanted to see with my own two eyes ever since I was a kid. I figured it would be a good opportunity to culturally test out some new waters in comparison to both the United States and Spain as well. I also thought it would be pretty interesting to see the whole “language barrier” put in play, considering going into the trip I only knew about a total of three French and Italian words combined. Lucky for me London was thrown in the middle of the two, and as far as I know my English is still holding up pretty well.

Paris was everything I expected it to be and more right from the start. As my first taste of European life outside of Spain, it took a little while to get adjusted. The hardest part was trying to communicate in any verbal form, considering I knew little to no French (sans the French “key phrases” I had quickly memorized from a Paris travel guide on my flight over). My first taste of Parisian hospitality came as I was checking into my hotel, and the receptionist kindly asked (and by kindly, I mean not so kindly) why most French people know the English language fairly well but hardly any Americans know a word of French. It was a very whole-hearted welcome. In any case, Paris was definitely an architect/tourist heaven. I had the opportunity of visiting and photo-documenting numerous global icons and architectural wonders. First on the list was of course the Eiffel Tower, which I had always dreamed of visiting since about age 5. I even had the opportunity of going to the very top to get a bird’s eye view of the city of Paris, which for me personally was a pretty big feat given my fear of heights. Next on the list was Notre Dame Cathedral, which was just as amazing in person as it was in all my architecture text books, followed by the underground catacombs of Paris. Aside from all the traditional tourist icons, I also decided to visit a few non-traditional spots that for an architecture student held some particular relevance. I spent some time at Renzo Piano’s Pompidou Center, which love it or hate it, was amazing to see in person. I even had the opportunity to take about an hour train ride outside of Paris to Poissy to visit Le Corbusier’s infamous Villa Savoye. Given the fact that I had studied Villa Savoye for numerous projects throughout the past few years of my architectural career, it was almost surreal to be able to see it up close and personal. Perhaps my favorite tourist hot-spot in all of Paris was the Louvre art museum, which I visited (both during the day and at night) a total of about three or four times. All in all Paris was a great success, and I walked away with about 700 pictures.

The city of London was, for all intents and purposes, a breath of fresh air. It was the first time since I had been in Europe that I was able to freely speak in English in public, which was a nice change of pace. Strangely enough, of all the cities I had visited up to that point in Europe, London was the place I felt most at home. Although the weather was a little spotty, the people were friendly and the food was great. I started off my tour of London with a big red bus tour around the city and saw numerous global landmarks like the Tower Bridge and Big Ben, which up until that point never knew was the name of only the bell, not the tower. I also had the chance to stop into the Tower of London (which isn’t actually a tower, but more like a fortress), walk through St. Paul’s Cathedral, look at the Houses of Parliament through huge iron and gold gates, and take a nice boat ride up the Thames River. My favorite architectural spot on my trip to London, however, was the recently restored (by architects Herzog & de Mueron) Tate Modern museum. In the two or three times I visited Tate Modern during my time in London, it quickly became one of my favorite modern art museums in all of Europe. Overall London was a huge success.

The third city on my tour of Western Europe was the historically and architecturally rich city of Rome. It was unfortunately back to little to no public communication due to my lack of knowledge of foreign language, although many people surprisingly spoke English throughout the city. My tour of Rome started with a walk through the Roman Forum, a visit to the Arch of Constantine, and a considerable amount of time spent wandering the Roman Colosseum. I also had the chance to spend some time wandering other notable tourist hot-spots such as the Pantheon, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, and the Vatican interior and exterior grounds including the Sistine Chapel. Of the three cities visited during my Spring Break, it was in Rome that I felt the most like a tourist. However, it was really interesting to see how Rome compared to the city of Barcelona both architecturally and culturally, given the Roman Empire’s previous occupation of Barcelona hundreds of years ago.

Following the ambitious excursion of Spring Break, it was nice to return to Barcelona where all the sites and sounds were much more familiar. It seems like Barcelona is starting to feel more and more like home every day. Muy bien.

Rollin' Rollin' Rollin'

So it's been a while since my last blog post, but I credit my lack of entries to the insane amount of things I've done and seen here in Spain the past few weeks. Excuses aside, I've been here in Barcelona for about 6 weeks now and it seems like the time just keeps rolling on by without remorse. The highlight of it all (if I had to pick one and only one) would have to be our class trip to southern Spain just this past week. We had the opportunity to tour the countryside of southern Spain stopping at key cities along the way including Madrid, Cordoba, Granada, Sevilla, and Merida. It was my first time visiting each, and I was not disappointed. For sake of ease, I'll give a little sum-up of my adventures and explorations in each individually.

For starters Madrid was very, very nice and may take the cake for my favorite city of the entire trip. In some ways it vaguely reminded me of DC- the city atmosphere, the friendly people. It had some of the best tapas I've tried here in Spain so far, and based on the crowds of inebriated people just outside of my hostel room at 4:30 in the morning, the nightlife seemed to be pretty good as well. During our two-day stay in Madrid we had the opportunity to see the Prado Art Museum, which was an adventure in itself. I was finally able to see the famous Velasquez painting "Las Meninas" (which I had heard so much about prior to my time in Spain) in person, which was pretty exciting. While in Madrid we also meandered through the Reina Sofia Museum and I was able to admire Picasso's "Guernica" up close and personal, another painting I had heard so much about before coming to Spain. The list of sites visited in Madrid also included Herzog and de Mueron's Caixa Forum and the city sculpture garden. All in all, Madrid was a huge success.




The next city on our tour of southern Spain was Cordoba. In comparison to Madrid it was a lot smaller and a lot more quaint- very rural European. We were welcomed to Cordoba by the remains of a still-functioning Roman bridge, a pretty interesting thing to see in person. The highlight of Cordoba, however, was our visit to the mezquita- currently known as the Cathedral of Cordoba. For one of the most famous pieces of Muslim-influenced architecture in Spain, the mezquita was a really cool thing to experience.

Next on the list of cities was Granada. In many ways it was somewhat reminiscent of Madrid, only on a much smaller scale. For what Granada lacked in scale, however, it made up for in history. Our two day stay in Granada was almost entirely dedicated to examing and experiencing the Alhambra palace. Our first night after arrival we had the opportunity of admiring the Alhambra from afar, sketching it at sunset from a neighboring hilltop. We were even provided with some Flamenco-like music from some locals while we sketched, which was interesting to say the least. Our next day in Granada we toured the grounds of the Alhambra from top to bottom, power sketching along the way. We were also able to watercolor in the grounds of the Generalife gardens- some of the most beautiful I've ever seen. Concluding our second day in Granada we had the special opportunity of meeting the archbishop of Granada for a private tour of the city's cathedral. Not too shabby for one city.




Following Granada we made our way down to Sevilla. The weather was beautiful- sunny and warm, with some of the freshest air around. Shortly after arrival in Sevilla we explored the grounds of the city's beautiful Muslim/Christian influenced cathedral and saw the tomb of famous explorer Christopher Columbus. Later in the evening we were lucky enough to attend our very own private Flamenco show, my first ever. Our second day in Sevilla was spent wandering the grounds and surrounding gardens of the Alcazar, which were matched only by those of the Alhambra. Our time in Sevilla was concluded by a visit to the Calatrava bridge that night, a spectacular sight to see in person.



Last on our expedition to southern Spain was the city of Merida. It was similar in many respects to the city of Cordoba- somewhat quaint but rich with ancient Roman history. Although we were only there for one night, we were able to explore the ruins of an ancient Roman theater as well as a portion of one of Merida's aqueducts. We also spent some time in Rafael Moneo's Museum of Roman History, which definitely took the cake for one of my favorite museums ever visited.



Sadly enough our time spent in southern Spain came and went way too quickly- I was almost disappointed coming back to Barcelona, but not quite. Nothing is ever as sweet as home, or so they say.

When in Barcelona

Week number 3 here in Barcelona has come and gone, and aside from the rainy weather a few of the days, there are no complaints to be found. Unfortunately I have not declared a theme for my blog yet, but it has been a work in progress; I'm waiting for inspiration to hit, my "eureka" moment. Early in the week we had the opportunity of getting a more in depth and more detailed "guided" tour of the exterior of Herzog and de Mueron's Forum on the waterfront, a unique structure to say the least. We also had the opportunity to head to Plaza de la Virreina to work on some sketching exercises looking at proportioning and scaling systems both in plan and section- my new blog theme? We'll see. However, as I was leaving the plaza with Mike Hoak and Mike Iskandar I was lucky enough to run into an intoxicated Barcelonan man walking his dog down the street following siesta. We stopped for about 10 minutes to talk- I figured it would be a good cultural experience. In broken English he praised the United States over and over again as being a great country, but insisted that as a language English was incredibly hard to learn. Naturally we responded by telling him that his English was in fact quite good, and insisted that Spanish was just as hard if not more difficult than English to learn. It occurred to me then that, regardless of which language any one person may hold as their own- whether it be English, Spanish, Catalan, or any of the other numerous languages spoken in such a diverse city as Barcelona, there is sometimes a fine line between the "language barriers" of different cultures. It was never more apparent to me than at that one moment, standing on an idyllic Barcelonan street trying to communicate with a man from an entirely different culture than my own using all the hand gestures and broken Spanish phrases I could come up with. In any case, it was one of the most noteworthy experiences of my trip thusfar.

Later in the week I finally had the chance to see Frank Gehry's fish sculpture/pavillion up close and personal, and I was not disappointed. We also had the chance to explore the waterfront and analyze the relationship of the Meteorology Center to the urban context of Barcelona. As I was sitting on a bench sketching, a bus of tourists unloaded and made their way right in front of me. Although it may seem somewhat trivial, about 3 or 4 of them passed by and kindly said "hola" to me. I guess after 3 weeks of living in Barcelona, I'm gradually starting to blend into the culture. Que quay.